A Fruit Garden
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It is most important to see that the bulk of the fruit is planted in one part of the garden on its own. It is a great mistake to try and grow apples, pears and plums in a vegetable garden. Or, to put it another way-please don’t plant vegetables and salads in between fruit trees.
For a north wall (that is the wall that has the least sun) it is advisable to concentrate on growing Morello cherries, say as ‘fans’, redcurrants such as Wilson’s Long Bunch, as cordons, and gooseberries such as Lancashire Lad and Whitesmith as cordons also, On the south wall (the wall that gets the maximum sun) peaches, apricots, figs, vines, and sweet cherries may be grown, as well as all varieties of best quality pears and delicious plums like Coe’s Golden Drop and Jefferson’s Gage.
Much can also be done, of course, by mulching the surface of the ground with well-rotted compost or sedge peat.
I know a garden whose owner insisted on having apples on each wall; and this meant planting on the south wall James Grieve, Lax- ton’s Superb and Cox’s Orange Pippin; on the north wall Beauty of Bath and Tydeman’s Early Worcester; on the east wall Ellison’s Orange, Sunset, and Tydeman’s Late Cox, and on the west wall Fortune, Winston, Pearl and Cox’s Orange Pippin.
Unless a lawn is to be used for games it is not a bad idea to plant a row of cordons on either side along the edges-or on one side only, if preferred. The trees look most attractive when they are blossoming, and equally beautiful when they are covered with fruit, especially if you grow crimson dessert varieties.
In a very dry summer this may have to be done two or three times a week in the evening time.
